Today finally some progress on the Z from my side as well 🙂
After removing the Breather vent:
I had serious trouble to get out the speedo pinion carrier from the transmission. Thanks to my close friend Stefan and some brute force, it finally gave up and came out nicely:
He also managed to move the “tube” that holds the gear selector in place, intwards the transmissino housing:
So i was able to remove the gear selector.
It’s currently at my other buddy Stefan for some rework (more on that soon)
After i finally have disassembled the transmission as far as i want to go myself, i had to make an “exploded” view shot, just for fun’s sake 🙂
Next step was masking the transmission housing parts with duct tape for glass-bead-blasting and to prevent glass beads ending up in the transmission..
The previous owner once decided to paint it all in silver, but i will get rid of the peeling-off paint again and have it back in all it’s original aluminum glory. Now only waiting for that one part back from rework, then will have it all blasted. All the other parts are ready 🙂
In 1993, big Glass-manufacturers Saint-Gobain, Pilkington and Belron decided to create a universal identification code for all glasses and accessories fitted on vehicles that have been, are and will be circulating on the European Market. The Organization is called ARGIC (Automotive Replacement Glass Identification Center), see www.ARGIC.org.
The Code they use to identify single windows on cars is called the ARGIC Eurocode.
The Eurocode has a maximum length of 15 digits and is fully self-explanatory, thanks to logic of codification that is always the same and thanks to the information that can be found in the Matrix.
Here’s a list of available Windows with ARGIC Codes i found on
http://www.classic-autoglas.com/ for the 240Z. They seem to have a long delivery time, but great prices and good service, from what i heard.
You won’t find the code on your original windows since they were manufactured before ARGIC was foundet, but you can find your code online.
Myself already got the windows, but i thought this knowledge might be useful for some of you. Many classic cars are available with ARGIC codes, which makes it easy to find and purchase the windows.
Today is a short update with a single pic, but a big Impact on the overall appearance of the car: The RH Tabco rear quarter panel is welded in place. I guess there is still a lot of work to make the fitment perfect and all, but at least there isn’t a big hole anymore 🙂
It has been a while, since i updated the 240Z project here. It’s not dead at all, i’m just super busy with some once-in-a-lifetime projects that have to be adressed first.
I was a bit bummed that my bodyshop guy was so busy as well and couldn’t work on it either. However yesterday and today i got some updates totally unexpected and was more than happy 🙂
1) Tabco rear inner wheel well was finally welded in and painted in some protective paint:
The wheel arches are coming along nicely…
Todays update contained the rear lower piece of the RH side lower door sill area. Before:
Let’s see what’s up next 🙂
A few weeks ago i met an old school-buddy of mine which i haven’t seen in a while. I knew he was into restoring old Alfa-romeos but he asked me if i could help him look for some parts for a Datsun which his girlfriend bought. Of course i can 🙂
Last week i went to check out the car: A genuine Datsun Cherry GL N10 1979 prefacelift 5-door in a lovely blue color and great condition:
Aside from a few very small rust spots that will be adressed soon, the car is really almost mint.
Love the big Datsun letters on the back 🙂
Little motor is running well and just needs a bit of fine-tuning on the carbs.
Love the blue interior, almmost factory-fresh 🙂
It even seems that it came with some cool dealer optional wheels:
In the first picture you could see that the gorgeous large datsun “D-Emblem” in the front-grille was missing, that’s where i came to play. Thanks to some people i know, i was finally able to find a NOS Emblem at a dealer in Germany. I want to thank My man Marco a lot for supporting me with this. Thanks mate 🙂
So hopefully the car is completed again soon 🙂
After one of the massive return springs at the Garage door burst, i wasn’t able to Access the Garage, then i got hit with a summer Influenza and daily duties so this got a bit delayed. However i’m happy that i was finally able to fix all the electrical issues on the EK9 and have her back in full running mode.
Ordered a new brake light Switch. Turns out Honda Switzerland is charging 68.- CHF for a new one and has a 5 weeks delivery time for this. I would have preferred an OEM product but since summer in switzerland is short i didn’t want to have her in the Garage all the time. So i decided to purchase a similar third-Party Switch on Ebay for half the Price and a 3-days delivery time:
Here we had the old Switch still installed above the brake pedal:
New vs old:
New one installed:
everything back together, and it works – yay 🙂
Time for a spirited test-drive.
whats up next? I think it needs a thorough cleaning inside and outside and probably a bit of photoshooting 🙂
Well OK. last post i told you about the three problems i have with my EK9. While the Battery was solved, i later found out i’m an idiot and problem Nr. 2 was not even a problem. Just me being stupid. The parking light would not light even after replacement of the bulb. A four hours later it turned out that i replaced the wrong (H4) bulb istead of the correct 12V 5W bulb. Well two dollars later i had that one solved too 🙂
The first, wrong (headlight) bulbs which i exchanged instead of the small one:
Now to problem Nr. 3 (a real problem): The brake lights mostly don’t work. Curiously they sometimes DID work after a long drive…
Since i’m an electronic engineer i decided i’ll have a look at the schematics before i bring it to the workshop…
As you can see the orange (brake lights) and red (signal horn) circuits are connected to the same fuse. So when i hit the Horn and it worked, i knew the fuse for the 24V DC supply to the Brakelight swich must be OK as well…
What worried me a bit that not only the brake lights won’t work if the “stop signal” is missing, but also the ABS unit is connected to it and won’t work either since the schematics revealed it’s connected to the brake light switch directly as well.
Double safety issue here! I really wanted to fix this ASAP!
Since i knew the lights were OK and the 24V supply is OK too, the most possible reason (aside from wires, which rarely fail on a car this age) would be the brake light switch (“brems schalter” in the german schematics above). How can you check that?
First, remove the cover below the steering wheel (three screws and a few clips):
Have a look at the wiring mess underneath 🙂
Search for the Brake light switch, witch is mechanically connected to the top of the brake pedal (when pedal is pressed, the brake light switch is actuated):
Remove the two-pole connecting-plug from the switch and make a short circuit at the two poles using two measuring heads / pins and a piece of wire connecting both of them.
If they’re short-circuited you directly feed the 24V DC to the brake lights and ABS unit and the brake lights should turn on now. Which they did in my case. So it’s clear: The brake light switch does not make contact when the pedal is pressed anymore. Solution? Get a new one. It seems to be an easy install so i decided to order it myself:
Well let’s complete this job once it arrives here. I guess i saved some money by investigating myself. For additional fun here’s a picture of the complete wiring harness in the car.