Nothing big here. just spent two hours cleaning all the transmission parts after the glass bead blasting. Removed some leftovers from the masking tape and blew away all the leftovers from the blasting from all the small corners, etc. Since i forgot my cam at home you only get some crappy mobile-phone shots:
When done i started going through the small parts and decided i could clean them too. so the trusty green scotch-n-brite came in handy again to clean all the small pieces:
Then decided to make a little test-assembly with the new PU shifter bushings (red), since the old ones were quite worn-out (black):
This is how it all goes together:
And this is the result. quite happy. Will remove it all again, grease the rubber with some bushing-grease from the energy-bushings kit and have the washers and nuts zinc-plated alongside all the other nuts and bolts from the transmission before the final assembly:
In my last post, i wrote about the fact that the transmission looked wrong after the “glass bead blasting”. Many readers pointed out it seems to have been just sandblasted. I contacted the blasting company again and asked what happened. He excused himself a hundred times and told me that his guy somhow missunderstoud somthing and that it was only blasted. but not sand blasted as you thought, but blasted with “broken glass”. this is softer and won’t attack the surface of the Aluminum. It’s less corrosive than regular silicat-sand used for blasting. At least that was good news. He promised me to immediately fix that. Today i was able to pick it up again:
They glass-bead blasted everything and the surface now looks and feels a lot smoother and got this slight “satin gloss” finish. just as it should be. The sense of Glass bead blasting is to improve the surface density of aluminium. Like that it’s much stronger and will keep the appearance for a longer time when used unpainted in a car.
While it doesn’t have the super-glossy OEM-like finish it’s what i was aiming for. I got told for the glossy finish it should be soda/vapour/fluid blasted. But for me it’s perfect as it is. it’s not going to be a concours build anyway and it seems much fresher again. Also they clearcoated the cast-iron bits as promised, to protect it from corrosion:
This is how the gear selector looks after the protective tape was removed. Still needs a bit of cleaning though but looks perfect. just as i wanted it 🙂
Super happy with the result. and while it took me a few extra hours to bring it back again and pick it up. the good thing is they felt so sorry that the extra-work was for free. They only charged me for the first part of the work. which is awesome and came out on a budget 🙂
Last week i brought my transmission housing parts and some smaller bits to the local blasting company. The guy made a serious appearance and explained how Aluminum parts like these normally will be treated with class-triangles to break-up old paint and remove it. and then treated with glass-beads (pearls) to increase the surface density. He even told me he’s gonna paint the cast-iron parts with a clearcoat to prevent it from rust…
This is how it looked before:
Clearly old silver paint peeling off is visible:
Today i picked it up. and the first thing i noticed how “raw” and rough everything looked. It reminded me of sandblasted items. Sand-blasting is corrosive and will remove small spots in the surface of aluminum (like the transmission part) and give it a rough feel.
While the aluminum is thick enough to handle it, it just doesn’t look as smooth as a factory-fresh unpainted transmission should look in my opinion:
But since i don’t have a lot of experience, i returned home. What made me even more curious was the fact that sand came out of various spots of the transmission. Its clearly not glass-bead, nor is it any other glassy. I guess this is the “sand” they use for sand-blasting..
The guy even told me how hard it was to remove the paint from the previous owner. so i guess they switched to sand at some point.
While i’m all fine with that, i guess they didn’t glass-bead blast if after that. Somehow it gets a bit more shiny / glossy after glassbead-treatment and this sure looks like just sandblasted to me.
Also the cast-iron small pieces didn’t get the promised clearcoat…
Not sure yet. Don’t want to blamy anybody and it would clearly do the job. but i want to have it perfect. Either i bring it back or i bring it to another company to have it checked and re-done… have to think about it.
Or maybe it’s just me and the “gloss” will come back once it’s slightly corroded? not sure…
This weekend, the local Honda Garage “Auto Mutzentäli”, who’s in Charge of servicing my EK9 had it’s 25 Year celebration. Yesterday i got Invited for a dinner, but wasn’t able to attend, but today they had some Brunch and open doors show going on, so i thought let’s have a look. We were a bit early so they were not really open, however we were allowed to have alook around.
First to see outside was the new civic typeR Turbo machine. While it for sure is an inpressive driving machine, think it has nothing in common with the “sleeper” feeling of a GolfR or my EK9. It used to be a “civil” car with beefed up mechanics, but now it’s a full flashy show car with all the red highlights inside and out.. Not my cup of tea to be honest, but i’m sure it’s a brilliant driving machine.
Just h ope they get back to their roots with the next styling…
The reason i really had to go there was the new NSX on display. Honestly i’m not a big fan of Poster-child supercars and i prefer more grassroots-level of driving, but i just had to check it out. Compared to the CTR above the new NSX looks surprisingly tame without any Wing and black-only interieur. however it looks really well designed.
The engine compartment is a piece of art with all the carbon fibers surrounding the hoses and stuff. really well done.
They had some other cars on display for their celebration too. Here’s an old friend and reader mario’s EE8 CRX Track machine.
Really great to see the new NSX in person and wish the guys over there luck and success for at least another 25 Years. they’ve done great work on my EK9 and EJ9 so far and always provided a solid Honda service to our area.
In my last post about the 240Z you could easy see how the gear selector was worn out and had some concave marks where the balls meet the selector.
Since it’s a Cast iron item it’s a bit tricky to weld. And if you’ve been following me for a while you know there’s only one superhero for me when it comes to metal and welding:
My buddy Stefan Schär – who own’s an awesome little collection of beautiful Nissan’s and Datsun’s by the way – So i sent him that thing to fix it:
Before (Clearly some “holes” visible):
After some pre-treatment and cleaning the holes got welded up:
and then ground back to originale flatness:
Surface is way smoother than it was from factory. Now those shifts should be direct as New again. Maybe even better 🙂
Next it’s going off to Glass-bead blasting, then the transmission is ready for assembly again 🙂
For Stefan, he opened up his own business “Cagedude” lately, specializing in rollcages, but doin’ basically anything that involves some metal and welding (and cars maybe) 🙂
Check out his facebook page : https://www.facebook.com/cagedude/ for some examples.
His stuff is really work of art, and i have the highest praises for all the stuff he’s done for me so far. And he’s a super nice guy too, with a lovely little family. Check it out and support Stefan / Cagedude, you won’t regret it 🙂
Lately problems on the EK9 seem to almost magically solve them selves 🙂
Like it happened with the windshield, another problem was solved again.
A few weeks back one of the huge Garage-door return- / Counterweight-springs burst (a previous owner had installed a wrong one) and the part that flew away left an ugly scratch mark on my rear bumper of my EK9, which was parked close to the spring in the garage:
I’ve wanted to repaint my rear bumper and rear lip already since long, because it had several scratches and paint-chips, and the rear lip had a bad fitment, but i thought it’s too expensive to have it well done and i will have some marks again soon anyway so i let it be.
Well – the good thing is the insurrance company of the lady we rent the house from had to pay for this damage above, and the extra-price to have the rest of the bumper done (since it’s removed anyway) wasn’t that big. I thought “let’s pay the few extra bucks from my own money” and had the complete rear bumper disassembled, re-painted (including the lip) and nicely assembled and aligned again.
Turns out it had a few problematic areas underneath as well from a mild previous accident (nothing bad) and they fixed that as well, and even did some touch-up on some paint-chips on the front lip.
Frash as fresh can. Super happy with the work- well done to all involved 🙂
I’m not a big fan of Car-spotters and i’m neither a big fan of modern Tuning styles, with super-low cars and flashy colours that are purely for show purpose. However lately i discovered that any now and then a GT-R is standing in front of the building where i work. And i guess the Car did what it was intended – it grabbed my attention 🙂
Honestly it first looked like a widebody Liberty-walk car or something so i thought i grab my camera and have a closer look the next time it’s there. That was exactly what happened today.
Upon closer inspection it wasn’t a widebody car, but a tuned GT-R is rare enough in Switzerland, so i thought i’d give it a little feature anyway. (which i normally reserve for friends projects).
Aside from a grey-ish paint or Foil it appears to have an APR-Wing which seems legit, as these are now available with all the needed documents in Switzerland. Other than a few light Aero mods and nice work wheels, painted brake calipers and a few stickers and Speedhunters x Takata tow straps it seemed to be mostly stock. Except from some obvious lowering.
However, what made me a bit curious was the AMS Alpha9 Stickers. AMS Performance is the Company that makes crazy-horsepower GT-R’s both for street, strip and track.
A quick googling revealed the kit costs 24’000.- USD without import or installation. And this beeing switzerland it would cost some extra grand just for having it street legal too.
Also i wasn’t able to quick-find a company that sells this in switzerland with homologation, so it would be a lot of work (See my EK9) to get this street legal for a single-person. And it seems to be privately owned. To be honest i doubt this car is running an Alpha9 kit.
But then i don’t know the owner nor the car. If you’re the owner, please contact me, i’d really like to know more about the car and you. And then – who am i to blame? I was running cheap ass replica skunk2 and Mugen stickers on my Daily EJ9 in the early days 🙂
Also big probs for owning a nicely executed car and running original Work wheels and not any replica wheels. The car looks great and is in really good shape!