240Z: Parts back from Paint stripping

Nothing big today, just picked up a bunch of parts at the paint stripping company. The green colour is wash-primer to protect it from rust.
The grille parts. have to straighten a few things, waiting for two small vertical parts to be fabricated and then it will be ready to get assembled back together:

And a set of front lower valances, the gas door and two front tow hooks:

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ATENZA: Front bumper damage repair / Opel Astra Turbo :)

Yeah, i managed to address something long-overdue before christmas holidays and now got it fixed. At some point last year, something hit me or i hit something or whatever happened ( i dont know). Just one day i realized there’s an ugly dent in the front i haven’t noticed before. Long story short the Insurrance company directed me to their local partner to get it fixed. Before:

After (bumper was repaired and not replaced):

Sorry for the blurry mobile shots ๐Ÿ™‚

During the repair i got a spare car. it was a brand new Opel (Vauxhall) Astra Turbo. It wasn’t as bad as expected. But compared to the mazda a few things were a bit “cheap”

What i really didn’t understand is why they make it a powerful turbo car and then put such a horrible suspension and steering setup on that you feel you would immediately hit the next tree when you put the pedal down hard…

But who cares. got my beloved mazda back now and it was a fun experience to say ๐Ÿ™‚

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EVENT: Japaner old- & Youngtimer Meet, Bleienbach, 2018

The annual swiss Japanclassic Car Meeting announced it’s Date for 2018 and i thought i share it. The team behind is all passionate and just do it for fun. Free entry and usually a massive gathering. Good spots are gone early.
I don’t do shows too much because i just don’t have the time, but i try to go to the Japanclassic show whenever i can. All the cool guys, laidback atmosphere and preetty J-tin. Gett all the details on their Website. Check Pictures from 2017 here

 

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240Z: Turn signal switch & ignition switch ring painted, final assembly

Woohow! Another one of these little long-term projects finally completed.
I failed several attempts to paint the ignition-switch surrounding ring and the Turn signal switch stalk by myself. The paint would be so easy to scratch off (with fingernails) afterwards that it would immetiately look terrible once you touch it with anything hard.

So after i realized i suck at painting, i decided to hand it over to Renรฉ, the paint wizard at Autolackprofis which i know from the Honda-scene back in the days and is one of the most recognized paintshops in (and outside) switzerland. He’s also in charge of painting the car once it’s ready (if he isn’t retired by then :P) The result is stunning. We decided to go for an industrial grade paint which is stronger and more scratch resistant compared to normal car paint. Perfect ๐Ÿ™‚

So first in installed the painted ignition switch surrounding ring back to the switch:

Then started to re-assemble the turn signal switch (See previous steps here)
First installed the wire back completely with the switch contacts and the plastic spacer:

Added dielectric grease to all the contacts to make sure they will operate smoothly and contact well for a long time:

At the bottom end in added the little contact back to the spring and added dielectric grease as well.

Added the switch plastic housing and the inside mechanism back to the stalk and measured. Unpressed: Infinite Ohms (no connection)

Switch pressed: Zero Ohms (Short). That’s what the switch does. if you press it it will short the 12V applied to it to the chassis-ground. So it works perfectly (Always check before doing next steps, you will hate yourself for not doing so if you figure out once it’s installed)

Install the stalk back to the switch assembly. Since i wasn’t able to find a similar bolt used in the the original assembly, i just took a zinc plated nail in the same dimensions, cut it off and made it fit ๐Ÿ™‚

After that it’s time to get the wires back together. Don’t forget to add the heat shrinking tube before you solder…

Soldered wires back together and heat shrinking tube is shrunk to the original shape:

And secured using the small little clamp:

Think it ended up really well. checked all the functions and everything works, feels solid and looks great…

and definitely much cleaner compared to the original dusty switch, which was completely covered in old dirty grease.ย  I’m super happy to have completed another little project that took my quite some time ๐Ÿ™‚

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OTHER: HKS Turbo kit restauration (New year, new Project)

New year, new project? Nah, not really. But the turbokit i bought (which was clearly advertised as a C110 Skyline L20 Turbokit) seems to be for an L16 or L18 4-cylinder Motor as more as i research. Interest and feedback wasn’t as high as expected in it, but nevertheless i decided it’s a too nice piece of history to just have it collecting dust in the shelve. and if ever anyone want’s to buy it, i can sell it better if it’s in better condition. So i decided to have it restored as a little side-project.

So first of all, i ordered a ton of screws to replace the rusty / oxidized old ones with correct black ones again:

On my bucket list is also cleaning and re-painting the Surge tank to it’s former glory and will try to replicate the gasket and refurbish the overpressure-valve.
Will look way better after that and also should be working 100% again after that, except from all the missing parts of course…

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240Z: Visiting the bodyshop and Diff strap mounts assembled

Last post of the year. Nothing huge, but wanted to share the progress.
This week i visited the bodyshop to pick up some unused parts and had a look at t he latest work: The rear quarter panel is in, as is the inner arch. The outer arch has ben reshaped to fit the original bodylines. The repair panels have a different “softer” shape, compared to the original lines. but only visible if you know the details.

Currently he’s reworking the think soft “edge” (where the black line is). Most of owners probably haven’t even noticed there’s an edge. but my bodyshop guy is a perfectionist. that’s why it takesย  a lot of time. anyhow. The body is getting a concours level restauration ๐Ÿ™‚ Also the tank fillerย  “pocket” has been removed to get a little rust treatment, and to have better access to the inside of the rear quarters.

And at home i’ve been puzzling together various parts laying around. Like this Differential strap mounts:ย 

Now freshly assembled with fresh zinc plated bolts and tubes and powdercoated base mounts. Perfect.

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FOR SALE: 240Z / 260Z / 280Z ZG Fender flares, rear corner valances, Frame rails, Transmission crossmember bushings

Here we go. I have some parts for sale which i don’t need for my project:
1) A set of zeddfindings (USA) Frame rails (rear section, area under the floor pans).
This area is prone to rust, these have to be exchanged in most restaurations.
New, never used!
see original manufacturer here: http://www.datsunzparts.com/products.html
Original price (Pair): 100 USD (+ shipping & Import)
For sale price (Pair): 90 USD + Shipping

2) A Set of TABCO USA rear lower corner valances 240Z, 260Z, 280Z.
New, never used!
See here: https://tabcoparts.com/16752.html
and description here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02o03c/30-7331
Original price (Pair): 110 USD (+ shipping & Import)
For sale price (Pair): 90 USD + Shipping

3) MSA USA ZG-style fender flares (Fiberglass) for 240Z, 260Z, 280Z:
UPDATE: This item has been sold already! Rest of the parts are still available if not mentioned differently!


4) Energy Bushings rear transmission crossmember bushings 1973-1978 240Z, 260Z, 280Z. Website it fits 1970 up to 1972 240Z but that’s wrong. Only 1973+ models with new crossmember ๐Ÿ˜‰
See original site here: http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/7.1101
New, never used. Black colour
Original price (Set): 9.76 USD (+ shipping & Import)
For sale price (Set): 8USD + Shipping

Worldwide shipping possible, request for prices. Local pickup possible. No lowballing please ๐Ÿ˜‰

To see my other parts for sale, select the category “For sale” in the drop down menu at the right side of this blog.

Posted in For Sale | 3 Comments