It has been a while since i’ve been working on my car last. i’ve worked a bit on my other projects and had a lot of other stuff to do… But yesterday it al started off again. called mr. Petitjean to get the number from the bodyshop because they  haven’t called me yet, so i will call them myself next week. Then i decided to get a few things done today – Started of with the disassambly of the hatch: first removed the damper and the chrome stuff: the i removed the hatch glass: finally out: and last but not least the locking mechanism: second big project for today was…

While im still not sure how the chassis-work will continue i had to keep the project alive.. 1) a couple of guys where asking me to measure and shoot the bushings and tie rod links. so here we go: Tierod endlink from Stev’s Laurel C30 (black) compared to those from my 240Z (brown) – seems to be the same part and dimensions! 240Z inner tierod-link threads are 14mm i think, was quite hard to measure with me cheap tools… but i think should be the same as in the laurel C30 240Z upper tierod-link threads are 12 mm i think,  think should be the same as in the laurel C30…

Well, im at one of these pionts again: started off with the small triangle that was left in the rear: i spent about the same time amount to this small triangle then to the other two pieces.. why?  It seems like i missed to remove some rust from the other parts, because it seems like those small spots that whern’t removable by the csd disks where more then just a few darker spots. they actually where rust.. so i thought it might be better to give the chassis a sandblanst. im not sure yet, i have to think about it and talk to a few people, but i think if…

contiued with the work on the front right wheel housing: paint and rust removed, cleaned up with silicone cleaner: and epoxy primer added:

So today, i thought it would be time to start with the body & paint restoration.. 1) took my rotisserie and turned the body into right position for the work: 2) Removed old paint and sub-floor sealing. used a small spatula first to chip off bigger pieces and then took the CSD-disks, worked pretty well 🙂 3) Cleaned up the metal with silicone-remover, Mixed some epoxy primer and painted the bare metal parts with a small paint-roller 🙂 – done 🙂 Rest of the rear wheel housing and the strut tunnel will be done next time. or maybe i’ll continue with something else.. anyway. this is how i’ll do with…

time for another short update: Wen’t to my painter-guy’s workshop today (where they where preparing a pretty cool Golf MK1 racecar and an oldschool alfa-Romeo i think) and picked up some Paint-primer, activator and a bit of silicone-cleaner to clean it up after sanding off the paint… Hopefolly i’ll be able to start tomorrow with the bottom end, and wonder if i’m able to  handle this two-component stuff 🙂

Today i got my first delivery from japan.. Lucky me got a brand new (out of production) Trust TR-NA 6-2 Exhaust mainfold straight from the Trust (Greddy) warehouse in Japan – always good to have good connections over there. Yeah i know. totally useless part for this stage of the project. but i had to buy it before they don’t do any custom-orders on this stuff anymore 🙂 that’s the way we like it: 😀 and of course it never makes sense to ship a huge box from japan with only one part inside, so i decided to buy a HKB Steering boss adaptor kit, so i’ll be able to…

It’s finally done 🙂 well today i did some really dangerous stuff, i lifted up the whole car (first front then rear) using the engine lifter and put it into the rotisserie-stands.. Was quite unafe and my advice is to never do it on your own! But anyway, it worked and now it’s done 🙂 oh and i added a second screw at the rear hinges for some extra safety.. (sorry, no picture) well i have to say the masueres arn’t really the best possible, so it has really some bottom-overweight and it’s kinda hard to rotate it but it’s possible. and alltough it feels kinda safe when it’s secured…