240Z: Factory adjustable Race suspension Pt. II
So a few days ago, I got this delivery of a Nissan Factory adjustable Competition / Sports option / NISMO suspension set, and I finally found the time to do the research.
First some Details, I got the two sets (front and rear) from two different sellers in JP, and it’s a lucky coincidence that they actually fit / belong together.
The Part numbers are:
Front: 54303-E4622 & 54302-E4622 (Atsugi)
Rear: 55303-E4622 & 55302-E4622 (AMPCO)
On all four strut housings, each of the two platforms / adjustment rings are adjustable in height, and none is fixed, like they are on some other kits.
I assume that those sets were made by both Atsugi and AMPCO, that’s why they have two different brands stamped on them, as most factory suspension for the Z was available from both suppliers at the same time.
The suspension set is listed in the January 1978 US sports option catalogue as “Gas variable type” and you can also see the Spring length of 171,5mm (front) and 205.5mm (rear).
The same set is also listed in both Marc and September 1978 Japanese sports option catalogues. It is also mentioned that those parts are approved for Group 3 / closed circuit racing and are harder than the factory suspension setup and allows you to lower the car.
The older race and rally preparation manual still lists the predecessor with the end numbers -E4621. Please note that the springs remained the same -E4621, even with the new -E4622 suspension.
As the older -E4621 is also listed in the March 1976 Competition parts catalogue, my guess is that this kit was introduced around in 1976 or 1977.
According to Alan Thomas, the term “gas filled” refers to a system where the “open design” dampers are oil-filled but gas-charged to help stop the oil from foaming during heavy race use.
Unfortunately, the previous owner opened the rear suspension and now that gas is gone.
See here for more details on the open / cartridge strut inserts comparison: https://www.jdmjunkies.ch/wordpress/2017-01-19/240z-the-ultimate-guide-to-factory-suspension-and-options/.
According to Alan, there are companies that add a threaded hole to the upper strut section with a valve, so you can add gas again later. But he also mentioned, that the Gas is only really required for heavy race use and it will work without it.
Alan was also kind enough to share this photo of the factory gas filling setup / tool. To be honest, i don’t really know how it works but it looks nice 🙂
You may have noticed that the front struts came with these additional aluminum spacer disks.
According to the above competition manuals (Part no 12), those were used on two-seaters built after 1974 and all four-seater cars, but they were meant to be used on the Rear suspension of the car. It appears that people used them also in the front to gain additional ride height.
The competition manual mentions that they are made from aluminum (which mine are) and are 20mm thick. I quickly measured the thickness, and it appears I was lucky to get a free set of probably rare Nissan competition spacers included with my suspension.
Remember that mystery adjustable suspension I bought a while ago? I never figured out which car it belongs to. It seems it’s not listed in any of the competition / NISMO / Sports option catalogues i found.
But now, i finally got to compare them, and it appears that it’s definitely not for the 240Z / Fairlady Z. (Left = Mystery, right = 240Z)
The length of the strut housing, the length of the thread, the strange upper mounts, and most obviously the brake caliper / brake dust protection shield mounts are completely different. Also, the mystery set got an integrated switch to adjust some settings.
Lower = mystery, Upper = 240Z:
Since the mystery set is quite incomplete (it only came with one spring, some of the adjustment rings seem not to be original, etc). I think the best I can make out of it is to keep the original adjustment rings from the mystery set as spares for my original set. The smaller, lower adjustment rings have a strange size of 101mm. That shiny one, which seemed to be an aftermarket / homemade item, had a diameter of 100mm, while all original Nissan ones had 101mm.
So I’m very happy now to have a complete set, even though from two different manufacturers, but that doesn’t really matter, as it’s only a small stamp on the strut housing which is different. I will yet have to figure out how I can restore them back to factory, especially the strut inserts might be tricky to find a good solution, but it’s definitely doable and definitely worth to bring back this set to former glory. A big hat-tip goes out to Alan for all the Inputs and the nice photos. Your knowledge is of huge value to me, a and I owe you at least a gin-tonic next time we sit at a bar again!
Update:
The manual says the free length of the rear springs is originally 205,5mm. To figure out if they’re originals, I measured the length of both rear springs (the fronts are still installed on the struts). Surprisingly, they have different lengths.
One is around the original 205 millimeters.
The other one however is more like 109 millimeters.
I’m now wondering if this is due to mechanical wear? I know for e.g. on my Honda adjustable suspension that it dropped by 1-2cm’s in the first years after installation, even without heavy race use.
Or if those probably aren’t original springs?
My guess is that you won’t feel any huge difference once those springs are installed and compressed, unless an experienced racer uses it on track, so I’m not sure if I should give it a shot as it is, or if they need replacement? Luckily, I still have plenty of time to figure that one out.


2 Comments
Joe Molfetta
Hi I stumbled upon your website while trying to find Datsun OEM weld on wire harness clamps. I appreciate your thinking along the same lines as I.
I own a 1976 280Z that I retired as my daily driver in 1986. I am the second owner and have owned since 1978. As you can imagine being a daily driver it did develop some rust but not terrible. In 1984 I purchased a bunch of parts fenders, rockers panels, new ignition and doors lock set, rubber, brake lines, rear bumper, factory exhaust with the nice heavy gauge chrome exhaust tip on the muffler and a bunch of other stuff emblems and so on. My friend was the parts manager at the local Nissan dealer and he took great care of me. The engine itself ran great so I decided not to pull it and give it a refresh. I did go to town on the body removing all the glass doors fenders and so on. I stripped the car down to bare metal with paint remover I got from work used to remove the epoxy finish off aircraft. You can’t buy the stuff. Funny how you can’t buy anything that works easily today. I cleaned the body with scotch brite and DuPont metal conditioner. I primed it and at the same time replaced both rocker panels and the door skins. All From Nissan. The driver side rear quarter was damaged by the previous owner and whoever did the repair did a bondo job on it. I’m not a sheet metal guy or at least I wasn’t at the time. I pinned the rockers on the car and had a family friend address the damage area on the driver side rear quarter and the rust forming on the passenger side rear quarter wheel well. He cut in new metal at the wells but couldn’t repair the damaged quarter panel because they drilled a bunch of holes in it not to pull the dent but to give the bondo something to hold on to. He offered to replace the rear quarter but I couldn’t afford it so he did som magic with his bondo skills. Even though you would never know I can still remember him telling me you should have let me replace the panel. 😝. Believe it or not it has held up over 30 plus years. I will probably have a new quarter done when I get the car repainted. The car was painted with lacquer and like all lacquer paint jobs started to develop crazing after a long period of time. If the car was not painted with a clear coat I would have lightly sanded it and resprayed it with a very slow lacquer thinner. It’s a technique used on old aircraft. All in all it does not look bad up close you can notice the crazing. So my frame rails are still in very good shape. The far rear rail needs to be cut out and patched. I’m probably going to do that in the weeks to come. What saved my car from becoming a total rust bucket is the ton of undercoat they sprayed on it. I’m in the midst of trying to remove it. Ioa 1/4 inch thick litterally under there. Interesting is I know the interior floor pan and panels were sealed with seam sealer but they didn’t do much on the underside which surprised me. I’m going to take the engine and tranny out from the bottom just easier for me at this point as I have the front suspension out and engine frame for refreshing. So I am ranting and wanted to find out where you got the weldbon harness clamps. Seems the link I ended up at was a car dealer. Anyway I will be going through your website appears to have a lot of interesting. Thanks for your input!
Respectfully
Joe
JDMjunkies.ch
Hi Joe,
Thanks for your kind words and feedback.
Looks like you have a very cool project and good base car!
I found the weld-in wire tabs here:
https://jdm-car-parts.com/en-ch/products/wiring-harness-holder-double-5-pc-set-6cm?variant=16771687045
and here:
https://jdm-car-parts.com/en-ch/products/wiring-harness-holder-single-5-pc-set-straight-4cm?variant=16771209925
They are a bit pricey, but the quality is great.
This guy also makes some, but they’re slightly different than the original ones:
https://www.240zrubberparts.com/category/all-products
I hope this helps. Good luck with your Project.