Spent some more time disassembling parts to get them ready for zinc-replating.
Thought while at it, i could take the brake-parts for a replating as well. So i started with the disassembly of my Sumitomo MK63 Solid disk type Ex-works type calipers:
First got the old pads and shims removed. still looking quite good to be honest:
Then spent an hour or so at the garage and disassembled the rest of the calipers. With the help of my trusty little air-compressor and some redneck-skills i managed to get 7/8 cylinders out of the calipers without any damage to me, tools or the calipers.
However the last sucker doesn’t want to come out. Even brought it to a local garage and he used a torch to heat it up but wasn’t able to remove it. we’ll see how i can do that. Any inputs? Otherwise i’ll try another two days having it soaked in WD40, and if that doesn’t work i’ll bring it to a machine shop or so…
Otherwise i was quite successfull, the brakes are in great condition and by the way even learned a lot about brakes (first time working on some brakes so that was quite some fun).
After that i took all the bits from the brakes plus some other i found in my garage and put them in the “re-plating box”. Still need to clean all of this stuff for a few hours before i can send it there (they prefer old rust, grease, rubber-leftovers and paint to be removed.
Hope i find some time again soon..
Had a bit of spare-time today and decided it’s time to get some stuff done for the car once again. Wanted to have some parts replated (yellow zinc) so i grabbed everything that seemed to be worth replating. Here are all the small transmission parst that will go for replating (not all of them)
And than i found some other stuff that had to be disassembled first like the side marker / Turn signal lights:
Engine compartment repair light (Early version with the toggle type switch). before:
After ( I cut the wires since i will replaced them with new cables. the old ones are quite brittly and Nissan had a person with bad soldeirng skills for their soldeirng work *lol*):
Then the hood stay / lock mechanics:
So here are all the parts ready for replating. Still need to remove old paint (will do that tomorrow) before sending them. In case if you wonder how i remember where all the parts belong – What you see on this blog is actually just a small fraction of the pictures i make. I like to make all kind of “exploded view” shots like the ones above to remember the order they came in (FSM is wrong sometimes, or a bit unclear). And i also mark my pictures as seen here. When the parts return i will put them in the boxes again which belong to each part of the car 🙂
Nothing big here. just spent two hours cleaning all the transmission parts after the glass bead blasting. Removed some leftovers from the masking tape and blew away all the leftovers from the blasting from all the small corners, etc. Since i forgot my cam at home you only get some crappy mobile-phone shots:
When done i started going through the small parts and decided i could clean them too. so the trusty green scotch-n-brite came in handy again to clean all the small pieces:
Then decided to make a little test-assembly with the new PU shifter bushings (red), since the old ones were quite worn-out (black):
This is how it all goes together:
And this is the result. quite happy. Will remove it all again, grease the rubber with some bushing-grease from the energy-bushings kit and have the washers and nuts zinc-plated alongside all the other nuts and bolts from the transmission before the final assembly:
In my last post, i wrote about the fact that the transmission looked wrong after the “glass bead blasting”. Many readers pointed out it seems to have been just sandblasted. I contacted the blasting company again and asked what happened. He excused himself a hundred times and told me that his guy somhow missunderstoud somthing and that it was only blasted. but not sand blasted as you thought, but blasted with “broken glass”. this is softer and won’t attack the surface of the Aluminum. It’s less corrosive than regular silicat-sand used for blasting. At least that was good news. He promised me to immediately fix that. Today i was able to pick it up again:
They glass-bead blasted everything and the surface now looks and feels a lot smoother and got this slight “satin gloss” finish. just as it should be. The sense of Glass bead blasting is to improve the surface density of aluminium. Like that it’s much stronger and will keep the appearance for a longer time when used unpainted in a car.
While it doesn’t have the super-glossy OEM-like finish it’s what i was aiming for. I got told for the glossy finish it should be soda/vapour/fluid blasted. But for me it’s perfect as it is. it’s not going to be a concours build anyway and it seems much fresher again. Also they clearcoated the cast-iron bits as promised, to protect it from corrosion:
This is how the gear selector looks after the protective tape was removed. Still needs a bit of cleaning though but looks perfect. just as i wanted it 🙂
Super happy with the result. and while it took me a few extra hours to bring it back again and pick it up. the good thing is they felt so sorry that the extra-work was for free. They only charged me for the first part of the work. which is awesome and came out on a budget 🙂
Last week i brought my transmission housing parts and some smaller bits to the local blasting company. The guy made a serious appearance and explained how Aluminum parts like these normally will be treated with class-triangles to break-up old paint and remove it. and then treated with glass-beads (pearls) to increase the surface density. He even told me he’s gonna paint the cast-iron parts with a clearcoat to prevent it from rust…
This is how it looked before:
Clearly old silver paint peeling off is visible:
Today i picked it up. and the first thing i noticed how “raw” and rough everything looked. It reminded me of sandblasted items. Sand-blasting is corrosive and will remove small spots in the surface of aluminum (like the transmission part) and give it a rough feel.
While the aluminum is thick enough to handle it, it just doesn’t look as smooth as a factory-fresh unpainted transmission should look in my opinion:
But since i don’t have a lot of experience, i returned home. What made me even more curious was the fact that sand came out of various spots of the transmission. Its clearly not glass-bead, nor is it any other glassy. I guess this is the “sand” they use for sand-blasting..
The guy even told me how hard it was to remove the paint from the previous owner. so i guess they switched to sand at some point.
While i’m all fine with that, i guess they didn’t glass-bead blast if after that. Somehow it gets a bit more shiny / glossy after glassbead-treatment and this sure looks like just sandblasted to me.
Also the cast-iron small pieces didn’t get the promised clearcoat…
Not sure yet. Don’t want to blamy anybody and it would clearly do the job. but i want to have it perfect. Either i bring it back or i bring it to another company to have it checked and re-done… have to think about it.
Or maybe it’s just me and the “gloss” will come back once it’s slightly corroded? not sure…
This weekend, the local Honda Garage “Auto Mutzentäli”, who’s in Charge of servicing my EK9 had it’s 25 Year celebration. Yesterday i got Invited for a dinner, but wasn’t able to attend, but today they had some Brunch and open doors show going on, so i thought let’s have a look. We were a bit early so they were not really open, however we were allowed to have alook around.
First to see outside was the new civic typeR Turbo machine. While it for sure is an inpressive driving machine, think it has nothing in common with the “sleeper” feeling of a GolfR or my EK9. It used to be a “civil” car with beefed up mechanics, but now it’s a full flashy show car with all the red highlights inside and out.. Not my cup of tea to be honest, but i’m sure it’s a brilliant driving machine.
Just h ope they get back to their roots with the next styling…
The reason i really had to go there was the new NSX on display. Honestly i’m not a big fan of Poster-child supercars and i prefer more grassroots-level of driving, but i just had to check it out. Compared to the CTR above the new NSX looks surprisingly tame without any Wing and black-only interieur. however it looks really well designed.
The engine compartment is a piece of art with all the carbon fibers surrounding the hoses and stuff. really well done.
They had some other cars on display for their celebration too. Here’s an old friend and reader mario’s EE8 CRX Track machine.
Really great to see the new NSX in person and wish the guys over there luck and success for at least another 25 Years. they’ve done great work on my EK9 and EJ9 so far and always provided a solid Honda service to our area.
In my last post about the 240Z you could easy see how the gear selector was worn out and had some concave marks where the balls meet the selector.
Since it’s a Cast iron item it’s a bit tricky to weld. And if you’ve been following me for a while you know there’s only one superhero for me when it comes to metal and welding:
My buddy Stefan Schär – who own’s an awesome little collection of beautiful Nissan’s and Datsun’s by the way – So i sent him that thing to fix it:
Before (Clearly some “holes” visible):
After some pre-treatment and cleaning the holes got welded up:
and then ground back to originale flatness:
Surface is way smoother than it was from factory. Now those shifts should be direct as New again. Maybe even better 🙂
Next it’s going off to Glass-bead blasting, then the transmission is ready for assembly again 🙂
For Stefan, he opened up his own business “Cagedude” lately, specializing in rollcages, but doin’ basically anything that involves some metal and welding (and cars maybe) 🙂
Check out his facebook page : https://www.facebook.com/cagedude/ for some examples.
His stuff is really work of art, and i have the highest praises for all the stuff he’s done for me so far. And he’s a super nice guy too, with a lovely little family. Check it out and support Stefan / Cagedude, you won’t regret it 🙂